Gemlux rod holders should match the rod’s job and the angle of your gunwale. Use 0-degree holders for bent-butt deep-drop positions and angled holders for rods fishing outboard. Measure before ordering, then through-bolt holders carrying heavy trolling loads with backing plates into sound, sealed material.
The angle on the holder is only part of the measurement. A sloping gunwale changes where the rod points, and a stainless holder cannot make up for soft core underneath it.
Why does the angle on the box not match the angle your rod fishes?
Rod-holder angles are measured from vertical when the mounting surface is level. Most fiberglass gunwales curve along the boat and slope across it. Depending on which way you orient the holder, that slope can increase or reduce the rod’s lean. A 15-degree holder on a surface sloping 15 degrees in the opposing direction can put the rod close to vertical.
Set a level or angle finder on the gunwale at each proposed location. Measure across the rail and fore-and-aft, then check the holder’s orientation against those measurements. Mark the position with tape and sight the rod tip from inside the boat before cutting.
Which angle fits which rod in the spread?
Choose the angle by where the rod tip needs to sit, not by how the holders look along the rail.
Zero-degree holders suit bent-butt deep-drop rods and high-speed trolling positions where the load runs close to straight down through the rod. A heavy gimbal is especially useful here. Its pin or slot engages the rod butt and keeps it from rotating under load.
Angled holders suit rods fishing outboard, where the tip needs to clear the rail and other lines. Check that clearance with the rod you intend to use, rather than judging from the empty holder.
Gemlux offers flush-mount holders from vertical through 30 degrees off vertical, with a 15-degree option between them. Drain options also vary by model. For the rods themselves, see our saltwater rods, and for more on how a conventional rod bends under load, see conventional rod action.
Where do outriggers, planer boards and downriggers go?
Plan those positions before ordering holders. Mark each proposed hole with tape, then sit in the boat and check where each rod tip and line will run. Allow clearance from the rail and from neighboring lines, including those running through outriggers.
Holders are commonly arranged in pairs along each gunwale, but there is no fixed number that suits every boat. Let your spread determine the count and spacing. Even spacing is no help if one rod tip fouls the next line. For the related teaser setup, see teaser reels for center consoles.
How do you check and repair a cored gunwale before drilling?
A hole through a cored panel exposes absorbent material beneath the fiberglass skins. Sealing only the flange leaves that core vulnerable if water gets past the bedding. Isolate the exposed core before installing the holder.
Check the core and what sits below the hole
Check both the mounting surface and the space beneath it. The holder’s tube needs clearance below the gunwale, and the backing plate needs room to sit against sound material.
- Tap around the proposed location and compare the sound with nearby areas. A dull response can indicate a problem, but a tap test alone does not establish that the core is sound.
- Use a moisture meter, if available, to investigate suspect areas. Compare readings with apparently sound sections rather than treating one reading as a diagnosis.
- Look below for wiring and fuel lines, and for any structure the tube would meet. Check the full path of the angled tube, not just the point directly beneath the flange.
- Confirm access for the backing plate and nuts before cutting.
Over-drill and rebuild the core before the holder goes in
The aim is to leave a solid epoxy barrier between the core and each opening. Follow the holder’s installation dimensions and the epoxy manufacturer’s preparation and curing instructions.
- At the tube opening and fastener holes, remove enough surrounding core to create space for an epoxy barrier.
- Remove wet or damaged material back to sound, dry core. Do not fill over material that remains wet.
- Fill the prepared void with thickened epoxy and let it cure fully.
- Then recut or redrill to the required dimensions. The core stays sealed behind the epoxy. Check that the bolts and backing plate bear on sound material.
Stop if soft core extends beyond the immediate repair area or cracks radiate from the gunwale. That calls for a fiberglass repair specialist or marine surveyor, not a larger bead of sealant.
Why do heavily loaded holders need through-bolted backing plates?
Heavy trolling loads pull on the holder and its mounting surface for sustained periods. Self-tapping screws into laminate alone are not appropriate for that work. Through-bolt any holder that takes a heavy trolling load or a planer load, with a backing plate.
The plate spreads the load over a wider area, reducing the risk of crushing or delamination around the bolt holes. Gemlux offers separate 316 stainless backing plates sized for its holders. Check compatibility with the particular holder before ordering.
Compare the plate dimensions with the tube cutout and bolt pattern. The bolts need enough material between their holes and the cutout, and you need access underneath to fit and tighten the hardware.
Should you use polyurethane or silicone to bed a holder?
Polyurethane bedding is the usual choice for a permanent through-bolted holder. It cures to a flexible, waterproof seal that tolerates movement. Apply it beneath the flange and around the fastener shanks, following the product’s instructions.
Reserve silicone for suitable fittings you expect to disassemble. Its residue is difficult to remove and can interfere with later painting or rebedding. Check the sealant’s stated uses rather than choosing a tube simply because it says “waterproof.”
Bedding keeps water out of the joint and fastener holes. It does not repair damaged core or replace the epoxy barrier around an opening.
Why is the winter haul-out the right time to do this?
A November haul-out can offer access beneath the gunwale while the boat is out of service. But haul-out alone does not make the deck dry or keep rain off fresh work. Choose a sheltered working period and check the temperature and moisture requirements for both epoxy and bedding.
Seal exposed core before freezing weather. Water trapped in a cored panel can worsen damage through freeze-thaw cycles, so do not leave newly cut openings unprotected while waiting for parts.
Before ordering, write down the effective angle at each position and confirm the tube and backing-plate clearance. We sell rods and gear online. To order by phone, call 1-888-810-7283, or see our contact page.
Frequently asked questions
What angle rod holder should I use for trolling?
Use 0-degree holders with a heavy gimbal for bent-butt deep-drop and high-speed trolling positions where the load runs close to straight down through the rod. Angled holders suit rods fishing outboard. Check the installed angle on your gunwale and the rod tip’s clearance before cutting.
What is the difference between 0, 15, and 30 degree rod holders?
On a level mounting surface, a 0-degree holder stands the rod straight up. A 15-degree holder leans it 15 degrees from vertical, and a 30-degree holder leans it 30. A sloping gunwale changes the installed angle. Its slope can increase or reduce the lean, depending on the holder’s orientation.
Do I need a backing plate for rod holders?
Yes, whenever the holder takes a heavy trolling load. Planers and downriggers count too. Through-bolt them with a compatible backing plate that spreads the load over sound material. Do not rely on self-tapping screws into laminate alone for those applications.
What sealant should I use for boat rod holders?
Polyurethane bedding is the usual choice for permanent through-bolted holders. Bed beneath the flange and around the fastener shanks according to the product instructions. Seal any exposed core separately before bedding the hardware.
How do I seal a rod holder hole in a cored deck?
Remove core around the opening and fastener holes, then fill the prepared void with thickened epoxy to isolate the remaining core. After the epoxy cures, recut or redrill to the required dimensions and bed the holder. If wet or soft core extends beyond the repair area, have a fiberglass specialist assess it before installing hardware.